Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Taurus

 
I have made a new leather jacket.  Well...  it's "pleather" really.  A faux leather jacket; or maybe we can call it a fleather jacket... ha!   I'm going to go with that.  I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!  I've been thinking wistfully about a leather jacket for years, and I was super impressed with kbenco's gorgeous leather jacket.  So, while I was staying at my parents' place over Easter I noticed this pattern, designed for leather in one of Mum's old Burda style magazines. I found this very nice chocolate brown and black-splodged PU laminate in Fabulous Fabrics; the texture is very realistic, semi-matte and soft and very faintly "crazed" like very well-loved, well-worn old leather.  I bought up and got cracking.
The jacket is pattern number 113 from Burda style magazine, 08/2010.  I made no modifications, excepting multiple teeny modifications to get a good fit.  There were plenty of these, but I'm only listing them in my review below if you feel like plodding through the nitty gritty, since reading about personal fitting modifications is the most boring thing on the planet.  The only one really worth mentioning is that the sleeve cap to this pattern is rather high and leather is not a fabric that lends itself well to easing.  So I shaved off quite some height off the top of the sleeve cap, just over 1cm tapering off to the gathering start and end points.
I'm not completely sure about that slit at the lower edge of the centre back seam.  I don't really see the point of it.  I'm giving it a fair go though.  It's on trial.  I might decide to sew it up sometime down the track...
The jacket is fully lined with chocolate brown polyacetate lining fabric.  
It has a hidden button placket for two hidden buttons, and two large, lined, flapped patch pockets at the hips, which are unfortunately not situated very conveniently for actually putting your hands in (sad face)  But you can still put things in them, and they do look pretty cool.  I like leather jackets to have lots of things and detailing and stuff on the outside.  In my opinion details really up the cool quotient on a casual jacket and lend it a young, urban aesthetic.
The jacket also has one small welted pocket on the upper left.  My fabric tended to "bounce" out of a fold, so I edge-stitched the welt, as well as the collar and front opening edges, to give them a flat sharp edge.  
The pattern called for the pocket bag under the welt to be inserted in line with and perpendicular to the pocket, which would have meant it would sit stuck out at a slight angle.  Whaaaa?  So I changed it so it hangs down vertically from the welt.  It's hidden in between the lining and the jacket, so you can't actually see the pocket bag at all, but I just didn't like the idea of it sitting out all skewiff, defying gravity like that; it seemed an oddly imperfect and unbalanced way of doing the pocket, and it would have flopped in on itself a bit.  I think Burda probably did it this way to make the pattern piece and the instructions easier; but I just had to alter it to have a straight-hanging pocket.
Apparently the sleeves are 7cm longer than normal so that the wearer can roll or fold them back.  Well, I love this longer length.  This is great for winter.  I always get really cold wrists in winter, and so I won't be rolling or folding them up at all!


Details:
Jacket; Burda style magazine 08/2010, 113, pleather
Skirt; Vogue 8363 with modifications, rusty red wool/silk mix, details and my review of this pattern here
Tshirt; self-drafted, white cotton, details here
Boots; Enrico Antinori

By the way, I often state that whatever I am wearing in my picture is what I am wearing that day, that I keep it real and never ever "dress up" just for the camera.  Well obviously, everyone in Perth will know straight away that it is a bit too warm for a winter-y get-up like this today! so in this case I am "dressing up"  (blush)  Sorry, but I just couldn't wait for winter to show off my new jacket!

Pattern Description:
Fitted jacket with a short V-neckline, narrow standing collar, single welted breast pocket and two flapped patch pockets.  Long two piece sleeves, front has two darts for shaping, the back features a short lower hem vent and the front closes by partially hidden button placket
Pattern Sizing:
Petite/half sizes 17-21; I made the size 19
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well; I think the styling is great; a mixture of classic blazer and motorcycle jacket with a neat and nifty, waist-defining shape, and cute detailing.  I really like the pockets and I think they look really great in leather.  The sleeves are 7cm longer than normal.  I love this, they will keep my wrists nice and warm this winter.
I'm not completely sold on that centre back slit at the hem.  I don't really see the point of it.  This may or may not get sewn up in the future, if it lets too much cold air in.
Fabric Used:
Faux leather, with polyacetate lining fabric for the lining
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t make any design changes, but I made tonnes of small modifications for fit.  Considering leather is not a fabric that eases at all, I think the sleeve cap is drafted too high and would have been too difficult to ease into the armhole.  I shaved off about 1cm in height off the top, and also took about 1cm off the edge of each shoulder seam, the latter a fit modification.  I took in all the seam allowances at the waist to bring the jacket in to hug my waist; the shaping as it was a tad boxy for what I wanted.  The faux leather fabric I used didn't take creases at all, so I edge-stitched all around the front edges of the jacket and collar, as well as the fold of the welt, to give a nice sharp edge.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe…. so many patterns, so little time!  But yes, of course I recommend this classic yet cool pattern to others.
Conclusion:
Well I now have a cool new (f)leather jacket.  I'm totally happy with it.  ‘Nuff said  :)

59 comments:

  1. Great (p)leather jacket and you are all set for when winter arrives.

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  2. Fabulous Carolyn! You did a great job making this and it looks lovely on you.

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  3. It's got a hint of Bavarian chic about it as well.

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  4. It's a great jacket! I've made it twice already and you are right, I did get rid of the back slit on both version. Good idea using pleather. Well done!

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  5. Very well made Carolyn....and you have shown your experience as a seamstress again! When sewing with leather or something similar, there is NO room for error, as you can't unpick as with a regular fabric. If you are not familiar with the pattern, it becomes even more difficult to achieve that "no error" result.

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  6. Very cool young look, masterful sewing! Great jacket!

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  7. Salute to you.... Great work of yours. Are you a born talent?
    Your dog is so happy.

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    1. Thank you , but no! Lots and lots of practice :)
      I love how my dog smiles too!

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  8. Oh, I was wondering what you were up to sewing wise. This jacket is just pure awesome. Love everything about it.

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  9. I knew there had to be some big project on the table lately! I guess I was right. Your knew jacket is lovely. I once made a genuine leather jacket in the 80's (showing my age, I know), when I was young and confident. I don't know whether I would have the nerve now! A pleather one is a good idea. Is it easier to work with than the real thing? I suspect not.

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    1. I haven't used leather yet, but I suspect it is more difficult to work with than the imitation stuff :)

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  10. Oooh, cool hidden button placket! Nice job overall - looks really slick.

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  11. This is fabulous! The construction is inspiring, I must say that you got a fantastic fit as well.

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  12. This is a great jacket! You're so cool Carolyn, it looks very well made and lovely on you.

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  13. Qué bonita te ha quedado esa chaqueta, es realmente preciosa y está muy bien hecha.
    Te felicito.

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  14. Your jacket is great, I like the edginess of it. I think pleather might be more difficult to sew than the non vegetarian version.
    I am so in love with my leather jacket. I took it to Melbourne in February, just in case, and actually got to wear it in Summer too, which is the only nice thing about Melbourne weather IMO ;) (it looks awesome over a sundress....)
    Thank you for the shout out.

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  15. Wow Carolyn! An amazing fleather jacket!

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  16. I'm glad you didn't wait until winter to show your new jacket! I find it ultra sophisticated - perfect fit and I do love those pockets.

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  17. lovely jacket and if you didn't tell us it wasn't leather, you wouldn't have realised from the photos. Really lovely.

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  18. wow that is some good fleather....i would have thought it was leather if you hadnt told me! i like this pattern as well, definately will be keeping it in mind when i finally get aorund to making one myself! well done, looks stunning!

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  19. It's very cool - I can definitely see why you wanted to 'dress up' and the fabric looks really cool. Can I call (f)leather fabric?

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  20. What An Inspiration, Carolyn! :)

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  21. That is something else. Well done you it, looks pretty rock and roll to me. Jo x

    http://joeveryday19.blogspot.co.uk/

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  22. I like fleather much better than pleather... Great jacket. I keep looking at the things, but I'm not sure I'm actually the leather jacket type...I'm afraid I'm just the little old lady cardigan type... but you look great.

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  23. It's really cool! Thanks for sharing! All the details are what make jackets awesome!

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  24. super cool and I like that collar on the pattern, and the pockets are visually interesting despite less than useful for putting one's hands in.

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  25. fabulous jacket! i adore details on jackets, functional or not!

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  26. Very nice jacket - I love the details. Sienna looks pretty happy to be seen with you in it too.

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  27. That is a great jacket. I particularly love the collar and neckline. Another great job.

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  28. Gorgeous! And the shape of the jacket is fantastic. I'm going to have to get my hands on a copy :)

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  29. WOW!!!! I love leather jackets and yours looks pretty and old, I think that the perfect leather jacket has to seem old :-) All the details are great, the welted pocket and the collar are my favourite.

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  30. Great looking jacket. I love all the detailing with this. Great job!

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  31. Love your jacket! super cool. Great fleather :-) and your changes are so sensible and work really well. Nice sewing work, Carolyn.

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  32. I love your jacket it looks great with your skirt and boots.

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  33. I cannot believe I forgot to comment on this. It looks great. I love the jacket, and it suits you well. You cannot tell from the pictures that it is not real leather.

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  34. Oh, and I love how your dog is smiling :)

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  35. I love the tailored look, well done :)

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  36. Very well done! Thanks for your comments about this jacket as I have this magazine and I'll certainly consider it now ;-)
    JJP

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  37. Love the jacket.... want your dog!!!

    www.queenofmayhem.com

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  38. The most perfect leather jacket I've seen! Love the pattern - perfect for a piece of ponte I have in stash.

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  39. Fleather! I love that word! Lovely jacket: you did a wonderful job, just great.

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  40. What a chic fleather jacket! Love it!

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  41. This is simply luscious! I love the collar and neckline - really feminine yet funky. I bet you'll be in this all winter!

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  42. That's a pretty fabulous jacket, Carolyn. Well done as always!

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  43. I love the jacket, it looks great on you. Totally understandable you needed to show that, I am glad you shared so I was able to see it ;)

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  44. Love this Carolyn a very versatile day to night kinda jacket with a nice cut on the waistline. Tres chic. I totally would of straightened the pocket too, it would of bothered me knowing it hung like that under the lining. Love a good welt pocket too they take the garment to the next level.

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  45. Wow, that jacket looks amazing and I love how you manage to incorporate it into a feminine outfit!

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