Monday, September 10, 2012

Blue-grey hoodie

I have made a hoodie; this one for Sam.  
Sam is my quiet one; he never asks for anything, on the contrary he will firmly and testily deny that he ever needs new clothes or any new belongings at all.  But one of the fabrics in my stash was this beautifully soft jersey; a very fine quality knit in a shade of cool grey/blue that I think really is perfect for Sam's fair colouring.  So I set about making him something new anyway.
The fabric is part of a fabulous stash I bought at the Morrison remnants sale.  This particular "remnant" was about 5-6m and cost $15.  I know, right?!  That Morrison yearly sale is well worth checking out!!
For a pattern, I used the same old hoodie of Craig's that I used to draft his new hoodie, altered slightly to custom fit Sam.  Namely, I narrowed the body and shoulders, and raised the height of the hood.  The hood on the original Tshirt is a bit short, not really sized to be actually worn comfortably over a man's head.  However I know Sam probably will want to wear it up every once in a while, so made it a touch taller than the original.
kbenco and Rachel both expressed an interest in seeing more specifics of that interesting combined collar/hoodie, thank you for the request, ladies!  So I took a few snaps to illustrate how it all goes together...

The hood is composed of two shapes; a hood piece cut less wide than normal, and a U-shaped collar piece, slightly wider at the bottom of the U than at the edges, that forms a combined hood edging and collar.
Sew the two hood pieces right sides together just like normal.
 Sew the two short ends of the U-shape together, right sides together, on each piece.
Lay these two pieces together, right sides together, and sew together around the entire inner shorter edge of the curve.  Turn out and press.  One layer is the outer collar; the other the facing.
Measure and mark for the holes for the drawstring in the collar; mine are situated 1cm below the lowest point of the inner curve, and 12cm apart.
You can make life easy for yourself and hammer in some eyelets, but if you are me and like to make challenges for yourself where none need exist; embroider some nice little eyelets using embroidery thread...
Only in the outer collar layer of course!  snip a tiny X for the drawstring hole.  Leave the inner (facing) layer un-snipped!!
With a double strand of embroidery thread, sew a running stitch circle around the snipped X
Back where you started, commence embroidering tight blanket stitches, situated hard up against each other, around the hole.  When completed, run the thread around underneath the stitching at the back to finish off.
From now on treat both collar layers as one; lay the right side of the collar piece against the right side of the hoodie piece, lining up the top centre seams and ensuring the hood edges join at equidistant points from the centre front of the collar piece.  Stitch together, and press.
Again treating both collar layers as one; lay the completed hood right sides together against the neckline of the top, ensuring centre fronts align and the hood seam is in the exact centre back.  Stitch together and press.
The drawstring is simply a 1m long, skinny strip of the fabric, with the long raw ends folded in on themselves, and topstitched down from the centre out to each end with a wide zig-zag stitch.  The original had fancy cover-stitching to finish it off, not having a cover-stitch machine this is my best it'll-do.  And a perfectly fine and dandy option too, in my opinion!  Thread it through the collar and up around the hood edging with a safety pin, and tie each end off with a little knot to stop it slipping back through the hole.
The hoodie has a kangaroo pocket and a wide self-band at the lower edge.  The sleeves are hemmed using a twin needle.
Once it was finished and Sam put it on; he quietly, briefly, but spontaneously, mentioned that he liked it.  I count that as a fairly enthusiastic expression of approval of the new hoodie.

29 comments:

  1. Thank you for doing a tutorial on this! I think my DH would appreciate a hoodie this coming winter as well... I really like the "collar" style on your one.

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  2. Nice hoodie....unlike the previous commenter my husband wouldn't appreciate a hoodie. Not because he doesn't like them but because he gets fed up with our boys wearing theirs up and threatens those hoods with the scissors! My boys however love the things!

    I do like the hood detail. Well done, nice hoodie!

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  3. It's a work-of-art hoodie! How pretty your little eyelet is.

    Your son sounds gentle and polite.

    I didn't leave a comment on your daughter's jacket, but it's wonderful! Your daughter looks very pretty in it, and stylish.

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  4. It's nice to do things for people who are unassuming and undemanding. The hoodie turned out great! Low key, but perfect in all the little details.
    Wish I could go to the Morrison's yearly sale!

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  5. The collar makes this a great shape and much easier to wear. I love it.

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  6. Great hoodie and I just love that sweet hand stitched eyelet. I don't have a cover stitch machine, either, and no place to put one!

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  7. Love the hoodie and the whole look. Your son looks cool!!!

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  8. Great work!

    How is it that your whole family is so handsome?

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  9. The hood is nicely designed. Thank you for the construction details.
    It is extremely clever of you to make an interesting sewing project out of a hoodie. Your hand embroidered eyelet is a subtle touch of hand crafted luxury that I could possibly squeeze past my own son, what a good idea.

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  10. I think I'll try that hood the next time I make a knit hoodie.

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  11. I am completely jealous of how much sewing you manage to get done. Completely, utterly jealous.

    On a side note, as a fellow Perth-ite, I love seeing the photos in your blog and recognising some of the landscapes :)

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  12. this is so nice! Perhaps he is not too quiet to be appreciative when he does get an unexpected new item, however?

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  13. Yet another professionally sewn classy item. Lovely.

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  14. Very nice, my DH likes Hoodies as well. It looks very nice on your son :O)

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  15. Thanks heaps for the info about the hood!!

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  16. A quiet person who needs nothing expresses his liking for a comfy, useful and handsome garment--sounds like high praise to me! Elle

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  17. I really like this hoody and the way you did the pattern pieces, it's awesome and I will have to try that on a project.

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  18. Carolyn, this is such a great project and I'm sure Sam will enjoy it for a long time! Your description of him reminds me of my youngest brother :) Your sharing always make me feel excited about sewing, many thanks :)

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  19. Good to know there are alternatives to my fabric-destroying grommet tool. :D Thanks for sharing a more fabric-safe option!

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  20. This style really suits the men in your life.

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  21. thanks for sharing! another great and comfy looking creation!

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  22. Thanks for the tutorial for the hood section - it's such a nice clean finish. Great hoodie, it looks really good on Sam.

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  23. It does look pretty smashing! (As does Sam, btw.)
    Thanks for the hood tutorial!

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