Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Grey jersey set


I've made another lingerie set  :)
And I used this terrific bra pattern!   Kwik Sew 3300.  I browsed through the veeery few patterns there are on offer and chose this one as the cutest, and the closest in appearance to the sort I like to wear.  I am happiest in a streamlined little bra, with underwires, and cup inserts or at least a thin layer of padding.  Personally I cannot wear ones that have just one single layer of flimsy fabric, or just lace.
This pattern does not cater for a cup insert, so I sewed the pieces such that I could put some in...  I trimmed the inserts to fit inside the cups exactly and put them in just before attaching the underarm and back elastic edging.  Incidentally, I found (by sitting on the floor of Spotlight with my half-finished bra, comparing it to all the cup inserts...)  that the Birch's size 16 cup insert fits the 34A cup of this pattern pretty well! it has the perfect depth and just needs a small slice trimmed off each side.  Win!   To stop the inserts from folding up inside or becoming twisted up through washing I invisibly pick-stitched each to the cup lining, around the whole perimeter at about 5mm in from the edge of the insert.
For the two pairs of matching undies I used a swimwear pattern I've had for a while; McCalls 2772.  I've made five pairs of bathers from this pattern over the years, the latest two pairs here and here, so I know it is a perfect fit for me. 
These panties are made up using the pattern pieces for view E bikini bottom.


I see no problems with using a bikini pattern to make undies, in fact I think it makes good economic sense, since you are kinda getting two for the price of one, no?  All the bra and undies patterns I looked at had either bra or undies, and very few had bra and undies together in one pattern... and the one or two that did unfortunately were not the style I was looking for...  The swimwear pattern I used is not available anymore but I noticed this one, McCalls 5400 ... and this is a great pattern since you are getting bathers and undies all rolled in one pattern!

The best thing about lingerie sets of course, is that they use the teensiest lengths of fabric!  I love this cotton jersey knit, in a warm light yellowy-grey marle, than makes me think of gym gear and sweatshirts.  This fabric is partially leftovers from my Pattern Magic 3 Clipped Wings Top and I just had to buy a little extra, which then enabled me to cut out two pairs of knickers.  This worked out well, because I think two pairs of undies per bra is a good ratio to live with.  The panty liners I cut from an old Tshirt.
The decorative stitching for the picot edged elastic looks so pretty, yes?  This is the suggested finishing method for the bra, and I am so pleased at how attractive those triple-stitch zig-zags look.
I sewed a white button decoratively on each item.  I think the plainness of the humble button, its innocence and lack of pretension, better suits the sporty fabric and simple style of this set than anything frilly or feminine.   
Y'know what the fun bit is...? I am really looking forward to choosing interesting fabrics and trims for future sets... I think I'm staring down the barrel of a new sewing addiction!


Before y'know it, I'm going to be churning out beauties like these....
...haha!  Just kidding!! ;D

Pattern Description:
Underwire bra has back from power net, edges finished with elastic, and shoulder straps from tricot.  View A cups are made from lace and tricot, and view B cups are made from tricot.
Pattern Sizing:
Sizes 32, 34 and 36 with cup sizes A, B, C, D; and size 38 with cup sizes B, C, D, DD
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
in essence, yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes!  The instructions are fantastic, very clear and straightforward.  The method for attaching the picot elastic along the edges turned out really pretty, I love it!  I used the same method for the two pairs of matching knickers too.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This is a fantastic pattern!  I wasn't sure about my size to start with; there are no clear directions about selecting your correct size; just directing you to "select pattern size by your purchased bra size"  In Australia our sizes are 10, 12, 14 etc, so I wasn't sure what this actually translated to in European sizing.  I found a conversion chart here.
The pattern sheet is really well set out, with all the pieces for each size clustered together in separate sections.  Brilliant!  Much easier for tracing out your own size.  Which I actually did, for once  :)
The pattern doesn't make provision for cup inserts, and I prefer to have cup inserts; but it wasn't difficult to work out how to put them in.
Fabric Used:
Cotton jersey knit, underwear elastic, small scrap of cotton for the underwire casing.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't need to make any alterations to the pattern, it is so well drafted! but I did put in cup inserts, a personal preference, and omitted the lingerie rings and strap adjusters for the straps.  I don't think adjustable straps are necessary on a bra that has to fit only me. I just make them the right length to start with!   And if they do stretch out eventually over time it is pretty easy to unpick them at the back and shorten them a little bit.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, and yes!
Conclusion:
An absolutely fantastic pattern!  I was worried that making a bra with underwires and cup inserts would be fiddly and difficult, but I breezed through this project! because the beautifully drafted pattern pieces went together so well and the clear instructions made it easy, and dare I say, fun?  I'm really looking forward to my next set now.  I cannot wait to check out my fabric stash for small scraps of interesting fabric to use  :)

33 comments:

  1. You just blew my mind. That is one of the most amazing things I've seen anyone sew. I'm going to go pick my jaw up off the floor now, thank you.

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  2. WOW WOW WOW!! I am bookmarking this post for future reference. I have been looking for a swimwuit pattern as well and this looks perfect!!

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  3. .. except I need the adjustments you made on your swimwuit... the top is beautiful :)

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  4. I love this. I bought some fabric for undies the other day and was going to unpick a rtw pair but a swimwear pattern sounds like a great idea.

    If you make the versions you showed, we will have to start calling you Madonna!

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  5. Love them!! Wow! Great job! I'm glad to read I'm not the only one that HAS to have a cup or thicker padding... so many I see people make are just thin lace. Yep, not happening here!

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  6. Wow, so lovey. I bought a few bra making sets from an online website called boobytraps. Yet to use any though..... They are all quite fancy, and I think I do prefer the most sporty/comfy looking bra.
    Thanks for the tips on how you did the padding/cups. Really helpful!

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  7. Great set! Love the bathing suits you linked to also, so pretty.

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  8. You're actually making the idea of sewing undies appealing. I like the same type of bras you favor (underwire, and as smooth a cup as possible, and some form of padding is a MUST.) And since they don't make bra kits where you can just coat the foam cups with the knit of your choice, I hadn't thought to bother. But that one looks like it could potentially actually be worn under a t-shirt!

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  9. Won't make any more Benny Hill jokes, but will compliment you on a nice set. Oops I did it again!

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  10. Gorgeous set and the fact that I like an underwire and some padding which you made sound so easy I might be tempted yet.

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  11. That must be truly fiddly sewing! They look perfect - good job! So, sequins and leather for the next round, ha! ;)

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  12. Very interesting post, Carolyn! I like the look of that triple zigzag stitch. I was thinking about making the bra that comes with the bikini+camisole pattern in August Vogue, but finding the notions is really hard here, so far I just found the wires for a cup B. Your version in jersey is fantastic! Congratulations!

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  13. Cute! It looks so profesional and neat. I´ve never sewed a lingerie set, but I have to note them in my 2013sewing list.

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  14. I like! What you've come up with here looks very much like my every day undies. Can't wait to see your studded version!

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  15. I love this sporty set. These type are always so comfy and look cool when they are on.

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  16. That set looks perfect & oh so comfortable! I do think you should make that spiky bra, though. Just don't hug anyone with it on!

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  17. Very nice bra! I think I should try to make bra myself one day. All the more I prefer bra without pushups, underwire etc, so it should be pretty simple%) Thanks for inspirations!

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  18. OH HOLY MOLY!!! you've seriously done it again with turning out smashing clothes! i am completely in awe of your sewing super powers!

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  19. So nice! Love them! I want to try bras and undies at some point as well. Grey may favorite color! You did a super job as always!!

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  20. WOW what a great additional skill to have. Love them.

    Carolyn how about sharing a picture of your lovely lemon butter surrounded by those healthy looking lemons in your garden. It sure was scrumptious for breakfast this morning. Thanks :-)

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  21. Sorry that was from Sandi not David.

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  22. This is amazing! I was going to say they look store bought, but scratch that- they are way better than store bought! I'm a sucker for a zig zag stitch. Love it with the lingerie elastic. That's a great finish.

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  23. Those are *incredibly* cute. Perfect in every way. I don't blame you for the new addiction...

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  24. I like your story of sitting on the store floor picking your bra cups. :)

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  25. How pretty! it's a perfect set. I am not ready yet for lingerie... you amaze me every time.

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  26. Such a pretty little set of underthings! Oh, my gosh...I DARE you to make one of those crazy bras!!!

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  27. They look like a great everyday set - love the buttons.

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  28. Your underwear set looks very well put together and comfy! I love the sporty look of the grey jersey with the added cuteness of the elastic and single button! :)

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  29. I recently bought this pattern to make my first bra and have been thinking about two things: how to insert a cup (which you have solved) and what to do if I don't use powernet. I was thinking that it would affect the size if I use a different fabric instead of powernet(which I don't have and don't really want to buy). It looks as though you made yours without it, so could you please tell me whether you had to adjust the length of the band (I am assuming power net would not stretch as much as cotton jersey, or lycra swimwear fabric, so was thinking I may need to shorten the band). Thanks, Deborah.

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  30. Hello, I know this is an older post but I was wondering how heavy the jersey you used is? Thank you

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