Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Sorta Missoni

Firstly, thank you so much for all those lovely comments on my cardigan!  I was overwhelmed to read so many kind words... and with regard to my little rant; also to stress that I am not down on Burdastyle per se, which has so many talented and madly creative people to delight and inspire; but just their sucky anonymous ratings system...  yes anonymous.  A situation beloved by trolls, am I right?  It's just a mystery to me why they've still got it...  but in short I shall continue to virtually hang-out at Burdastyle and contribute, while simultaneously and quietly acknowledging that the ratings system blows.  


But on to far more exciting affairs, ahem; my new dress.  The lovely Passiona Cottee sent me this gorgeousness in fabric form in a very generous give-away last year; thank you so much Passiona!
The fabric immediately struck me as very like a Missoni style of fabric, maybe a diffusion line?  I wish I knew for sure...  The fabric has the signature Missoni design; those distinctive stacked zigzags in a multitude of colours (although having said that I do actually possess a genuine Missoni scarf, seen here, that has hardly any zigzag).   Close inspection of my sample revealed seemingly every shade of green under the sun.  Das is gut.  Green is definitely me.  Adding interest to the colour mix; a bit of rust, a dash of salt-and-pepper, a hint of sky blue, the odd startle of vivid orange and even a few rows of ivory; all melding together in a disparate and yet pleasing cacophony of oily swampy shades... 
Missoni is a stalwart of the Italian fashion scene and so I wanted make it up into something Italian inspired, and dreamed up this design with a blouse-y linen bodice reminiscent to me of those loosely gathered Italian peasant tops...  I only had the teensiest bit of the knit fabric really.  Actually, (warning; eco boast following) I used basically the entire piece of fabric... and the bodice is the leftovers from this shirt... so the dress is green in more ways than the obvious, hehe...
I used Burda 8071, a real tried and true, standby pattern that I've used heaps of times before.  Lost count actually... (hmmmm just did a mental count, and including two dresses that have gone years ago, I've used this pattern nine times now.  Yowza!)
The dress piece was cut with the right side on the fold, to eliminate as much of this side seam as I could.  Also, in lieu of body darts which would have destroyed the regularity of the zigzag design, I cut the exact allowance of each dart from straight out of the side edges of the dress pieces (I've done this before too, for this dress here.  Works a treat for where sewn-in darts in the fabric are not what you really want, but you still want the shape). 
I hand basted the remainder of the right side side edge invisibly together from the right side to ensure the pattern was matched perfectly.
For the left side seam of the dress piece, I cut and sewed bias strips of the khaki linen along the seam allowance, to stabilise the knit fabric behind where the invisible zip is inserted... and the zip was hand basted in place, again so I had complete control of matching up those zigzags as closely as was humanly possible.  Yeah; I am neurotic that way, it's OK I admit that... but I am pretty pleased with the results.
The lower hem, well unfortunately the lower edge of the fabric was not in super good nick and was already unravelling in some spots; the stitch loops were threaded through with one flimsy stay-thread which was not doing its job very well.  I carefully pulled this out bit by bit, darning where needed, hand embroidering the edge in a tightish blanket stitch leaving lumpy decorative (I hope!) blobs on the points of the zigzags.  I'm hoping it looks a bit like a crocheted edge...  just the type of crafty finish that I think finishes off this slightly rustic dress to peasant-y perfection.


Dress; Burda 8071, khaki linen and knit fabric.
side view ... and I'm chuffed that I can barely tell that side seam.
and back...  Rustic frolicking-in-the-fields would ensue, except that it is a pretty warm day...

40 comments:

  1. Beautiful dress! You have such a way with fabrics and scraps. Bringing them all together to create delightful, unique yet flattering and practical garments.

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  2. I love how you combined linen with this knit print. What a fabulous look! Zipper? What zipper? I don't see any zipper :) Nice job!

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  3. Green is a great colour for you, your dress looks perfect for our hot summers (at least it looks hot in your neck of the woods - it has turned cold in Melb).

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  4. Your dress looks very cool but earthy and blends with the surroundings brilliantly

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  5. I don't think there are words enough to express how much I love this dress. The colors and the zig zag print are amazing.

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  6. I also love how you've combined that olive linen with the Missoni print. I am not a huge fan of Missoni prints, but I love this!!

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  7. Perfect matching...you have much more patience than I do! And I really like those colours on you.

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  8. Gorgeous! Truly gorgeous. The edge totally looks like a crocheted edge - before I read that part I was already wondering if it wasn't crocheted from the picture. :)

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  9. omg i love that dress, you wear it so well too!

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  10. Great way to use this zigzag fabric! I see this sort of knit now and then for sale, I always think it is pretty, but then hesitate, unsure of how to use it. I love your dress! Such a good idea, I may steal it someday:-)

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  11. That dress is just 'so you!!!' Great work on this creation - 'side seam'??? What side seam???? Perfect...

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  12. Fabulous, fabulous dress. well done for being so green! I'm sure you will wear this tons of times.
    I didn't comment on the cardi but that is really cute too.
    Well done.

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  13. Fabulous, fabulous dress. well done for being so green! I'm sure you will wear this tons of times.
    I didn't comment on the cardi but that is really cute too.
    Well done.

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  14. Perfect work = perfect dress. You've created a very expensive look. love it

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  15. Beautiful dress. I love the zig-zags and you have matched them up perfectly. Great work as usual. I also loved the cardi.

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  16. This is perfect for you! Lovely.

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  17. What a great combination! And fantastic job matching those stripes, don't you love it when that happens?

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  18. I love this dress, it looks fantastic!

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  19. I feel like I say the same thing everytime I post here but you inspire me so much. This dress fits you beautifully, and the color is just incredible on you. Your photos are so great too! I have been trying to take outfit and project photos of myself with the timer and its not easy. You make it look like a stroll in the park :-) Great job lady!

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  20. Nice work adjusting all of these waves! And this kind of knit uses to gliss...
    I've bought a knit like this one, and I pretend to make a cardigan, but I'm still afraid...
    Kisses.

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  21. Oh my goodness that is such a great dress! Its just super!

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  22. Very well done, it really suits you

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  23. Very nice! I love zigzags, and your finish at the hem is kindof genius!

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  24. I love it, I want it! great fabric/color on you.

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  25. This is just so gorgeous on you, and the zipper is completely invisible!! Wow. I like this style of bodice for summer-so easy and casual.

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  26. Love it! I kind of want one just like it!

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  27. That fabric is a winner - very Missoni, and what a great colour on you. Love the edge on the hem and how you've combined two different fabrics. Love your countryside - great photos!!

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  28. Thanks for your comments - I don't get many and I appreciate you taking the time.

    Regarding your dress, I'm not normally a fan of the Mizzoni fabrics but I think it is the colour combinations that doesn't inspire me but I do love this green mix and I do love green on you with your auburn hair:) and therefore love this dress. I still can't do an invisible zip (only tried once) but will try again soon.

    I also love that Burda dress pattern - I have a purchased dress like that and I have kept it for years because I love it so much but I think I need to get this pattern now I have seen it on you. You've made it 9 times (how come I haven't taken notice ??? what am I looking at!) so I think that speaks for itself.

    Hot hot hot here - and I'm painting my bedroom!

    Regarding that sewing machine, I had a reply from a sewing machine "dr" on the net who suggested oiling it and heating gently with a hairdryer to loosen it up. I'm going to give it a shot and then I think I will give it away on freecycle. I am passing the love around as I just got moved a beautiful piano that someone gifted to my son through freecycle. I'll put some pictures on my blog in the next few days.

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  29. the fabric you "won" is simply beautiful. And the bodice is such an interesting take.

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  30. Oh, what a lovely dress and i do so like the colours of the fabric. The bodice is so cute and you've matched up the side seam so beautifully.
    The Missoni style fabric always reminds me of the bargello embroidered tablerunner i embroidered in home ec in high school - must have been about form 2!

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  31. I love it! The colors look gorgeous on you and the style is clearly you. I would agree that it is a Missoni inspired print too.

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  32. Oh I love those colours. And it looks like it would be incredibly comfortable to wear.

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  33. I love this dress! I am so glad to be able to come to this site and see your creations. :) I now need to go hunting for some Missoni type fabric. :)

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  34. Very nicely done with matching stripes and dart movement and all. I really like the scrunchy bodice, too.

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  35. I love this dress! Also, I was in a fabric store yesterday, and saw some very similar fabric. Your dress immediately came to mind, as my hands started reaching for it. Thankfully (or not), I remembered I had other goals for January, far too much fabric, and if something wasn't going to be made up right away, I should probably hold off on buying it. (But, I almost did buy the fabric - such is the power of this dress.)

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  36. Fabulous dress. Love the fabric and the way you've combined it with a solid.

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  37. Love the dress, you really can't tell where the side seam is, nice job!

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  38. I am so amazed by your creations Carolyn and your knack for color and fabric. I found some of this type of fabric and ruined my whole garment after I washed it because I didn't secure my seams well enough. And of course you look fantastic in the dress too!

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  39. Cool beans on matching the chevron at the seam.

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