Wednesday, January 4, 2012
A double-sleeved shirt
Remember I said I had made 6 shirts over the past month and a half? well here 'tis t' sixth!
This blue shirt was was intended for one of my boys and was pretty much finished, but I was getting more and more disillusioned with it and realising that they would probably not find it in the least bit cool. The colour and the fabric are too flat, the style is too old, and the whole deal is not hip at all... :(( so I set it aside and made other plans for their pressies...
Then I recalled an editorial picture I had seen and loved, of a Celine shirt from pre-fall 2011; which appeared in that picture to have double sleeves. A long sleeve of a different colour peeping out from underneath a prim high-collared short sleeve shirt... I had loved this look and mentally filed it away for future use. Now whammo realised that I had the perfect candidate all ready and waiting!!
So, I went online to find a picture from the original release of the collection (below) and saw straightaway that the sleeve that inspired me is not in fact a double sleeve, but appears to be a single and pieced sleeve with a seam at the midpoint... but by this time I was in love with my falsely inspired idea of the double sleeve and so this was what I set out to do...
I have had this long sleeve, white linen men's shirt (below) sitting in my refashion pile for... ahem, mumble years. Er, hazarding a guess at five? ... cough cough. It doesn't fit anyone in my mob, but is still pretty well-made and the linen is a lovely fine quality. I took the scissors to it and liberated its sleeves (the rest of the shirt will be put to good use, don't worry...)
Taking the blue shirt; well I had to cut off my perfect flat felled sleeves and flat felled side seams (a wrench!) and resize the shirt to me, since all my boys are a lot bigger than me. I'm afraid I just didn't have the heart to go through re-flat-felling these seams again either, since I was getting severely "shirted-out" by the time I had got to this one; number six. I was kind of like, oh yeah, whatever, run 'em through the overlocker (brrrrrrrrr! and 10 seconds later) yup, that'll do.
I didn't unpick the pockets either, and just left them completely in situ. This is why they appear quite big on my little chest and are disappearing into my armpits. Hey, I can live with that. The white linen sleeves were also quite massive on me so needed resizing as well... this turned out to be more challenging that it sounds, since the sleeve seam was a French seam and double top-stitched down in place. Tricky! I got there in the end, but the insides are not gorgeous... basically I ended up just overlocking the raw edges of my new seam and double top-stitching this down from the outside to match up with the remainder of the original seam as it goes down in the cuff. The cuff and the placket both are perfectly double top-stitched, and I wanted to keep all that intact and mimic this finish as much as I could. I think the seam matched up pretty good, yes? Can you see where the old topstitching ends and the new begins?
I wanted the sleeves to be fully separate from each other as the white sleeve emerged from out of the blue sleeve, which was a bit of a puzzle to mesh together... I ended up deciding to sew the blue sleevecap in flat, sew up and finish the sleeve and side seams of the shirt; and then after this set in the white linen sleeve. This meant the white sleeves could only be machine stitched in so far.
I completed the set-in by hand.
Last step; to topstitch the allowances of both sleeves together down to the shirt body...
Just to show the garment full-length... (might not wear it this way much)
Luckily I hadn't yet done the buttonholes on the shirt and so could put them on the "female" side of the shirt. I love these gorgeous wooden buttons from Fabulous Fabrics, the same ones that Sam chose for his shirt here.
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, of shot cotton in Sky and with long white sleeves from an old shirt
Skirt; Vogue 8363 modified, of burnt orange raw silk, details here, my review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Shoes; Bensimon, from seed